Very proud of myself, I made it to the top of Gunung Mulu to witness the Mulu Pinnacles, one of the world’s most unique and outstanding vistas. The pinnacles, 60 million years old, are impressive sharp rock spires that rise from the heart of the jungle, half way up the slopes of Gunung Api.
When I arrived at Mulu National Park headquarters, I thought I was only going to do day treks. After having a chat with one of the guides, I made a decision to climb the mountain instead. I’ve had the experience of climbing Mt Kinabalu, Poon Hill in Nepal, trekking the valleys of Dayara Bugyal in India, The Pyrenees in France and Baliem Valley in Papua in recent years. I thought I’ve got to try. climbing Gunung Mulu even though I have trained for it. After all, to me, the biggest failure beats the hell out of not trying!
I went back to the park headquarters and was told to check the next morning if there’s availability for me. There’s limited number of guides for the trek to Gunung Mulu, therefore advanced booking is recommended.
I was stoked when I was told there was availability for me to join another group of trekkers. I had to be ready in 30 minutes; to pack my stuff, leave the lodge and make sure I had my own food supply for 3 days! Being a light traveller certainly helped. It took me minutes to pack my stuff and I managed to get some basic food from the restaurant. I was confident I’d be fine.
THE TRAIL
The journey started with a ride on the long tail boat up the Melinau River. We stopped to explore Clearwater Cave and Wind Caves enroute. The trek to the caves was a good warm-up before trekking a 9km trail to Camp 5 where I stayed for 2 nights, pre and post climb.
It was a scenic boat journey. Lovely seeing the local way of life along the river bank. Women washing their clothes by the river, men fixing their boats and children happily swimming in the milk coffee coloured river.
It was such a hot day that I decided to go for a quick swim when everyone else stopped to have lunch. It was a total bliss!
The 9km trail to Camp 5 was rather flat and easy, walking through beautiful forests, crossing tiny rivers and suspension bridges. I just love the smell of the jungle, especially after it rained.
I’m glad I made the decision to pay for the porter to carry my rucksack. Not that it is heavy, but my shoulder injury that was led by my years of boxing, muay tai training and scoliosis condition has taken its toll. I could enjoy the trail, stopping every now and then for photos and not worry about my shoulders and my back.
CAMP 5
Camp 5 is located by a beautiful river, surrounded by rainforests. Doesn’t matter it being basic, it was beautiful anyway. Rooms were raised on timber platforms, without any door nor window. 8-10 pax to a room separated by about 3 foot space between mats. Sleeping mats and mosquito nets can be rented for only RM10 per person, per night.
I noticed fellow trekkers had sleeping bags and proper clothing. The last minute me used a spare t-shirt as a towel (thank heavens for my short hair!) and my sarong as a blanket. It was cold at night and I had to use my socks too.
Clean toilets and showers are available. You must bring your own towel and toiletries.
The kitchen is facilitated with gas cooking, utensils and basic needs. Trekkers cooked their own food. Since I didn’t have anything substantial for dinner, I paid RM20 for one of the staff to cook fried rice for me for dinner. That was exactly how much I paid for a plate of fried rice in Mt Kinabalu, 17 years ago!
THE CLIMB
The 2.5km climb is really challenging. It is a lot tougher than my climb to Mt Kinabalu and my 7 days trekking the Annapurna in Nepal combined together! Here’s my brutally honest experience of climbing Gunung Mulu. It is, however, one of the most rewarding things I’ve ever done in my life! It was EPIC!
Time frame to reach designated section of the mountain was given the night before to gauge the fitness level and to be sure that climbers could be back safely on time back at Camp 5.
We left Camp 5 at 6.15am. It was a beautiful morning and I was really excited to see the pinnacles.
The first elevation, 900m with 45 degrees climb, must be completed in 1 hour. I was focused on getting there on time and was glad I made it in 45 minutes.
The second phase was a 60 degrees climb, 300m and must be completed in 30 minutes. The path to the 1.2km mark point after was tougher. It was steeper and there were times I had to pull myself up using tree roots or holding on to small tree trunks for support. I had a big smile on my face when I made it to the halfway mark point and could enjoy a few minutes water break and Mars bar.
Made my way to the first ladder of the Danger Zone at Km 2 and was adamant that I would make my way to the top to witness the 60 million years old nature’s wonders.
THE CHALLENGE
My guide had to stay with the other 3 climbers who were way behind. I decided to proceed with Phil, a fellow climber from Sarawak.
The final section, named the Danger Section, consists of 22 aluminium ladders. This was a steep, completely vertical section to get to the view point, with sharp and slippery rocks to rest our feet. It was honestly frightening. A pair of trembling quads combined with accumulated exhaustions could lead to a precarious slip and fall. It could be a disaster.
I took a lot of deep breaths and stayed focused. It was both mind and physically challenging. . I was extremely careful on where I placed my hands and feet for support.
I finally reached the viewpoint at 11am and I had teary eyes as I made it to the top. Magical views! Words can never describe the beauty of this incredible art of nature. Witnessing the 60 million years of pinnacles emerging from its surrounding jungles is totally mind blowing. I’m lost for words. I sat on a big rock, took my time and enjoyed my fried rice (again!) for lunch and Snickers for dessert.
I set off at 12pm, the cut off time to leave the view point, and started my climb down the mountain. The climbing down was much harder and scary. The guide asked me and Dr Renu, another climber to make our way first as the other 2 according to him are fairly slow due to their fitness level.
Imagine going down vertically with sharp rocks and roots underneath. I carefully placed my feet and hands on the ropes, ladders, roots and rocks for support. Dr Renu kept telling me she was scared. In this section, there wasn’t anywhere to rest or to take a break. It was a solidly vertical.
I guided her on where to place her hands and feet and reminded her to keep taking deep breaths and stay focused each time I completed a ladder section. We both were relieved after making it past the Danger Section. We hugged each other and danced in joy. Now we had another 2.4km down the mountain to complete. Just the 2 of us.
There was no sign of the rest of the climbers, so we decided we would stay together the entire time. The path down the mountain was really tough to the extent that I bum-shuffled it the last 2 hours of the journey. I sat on tree roots most of the time and launched myself down using our upper bodies. My legs were knackered and I started feeling dizzy. I knew I had pushed myself to the limit by then. I kept my awareness, taking slow deep breaths.
It started to rain a bit and I was concerned. By 5.40pm, I told Dr Renu that I hope someone will be sent over to assist. I was so tired by then and going extremely slow. It was getting dark and I suggested Dr Renu to proceed. My heart was thumping so fast but I know I would be fine.
Thank heavens, 15 minutes after that conversation, Bayan, one of the senior guides came to rescue. He chopped a long piece of wood and made a walking stick for me. I held on to his shoulder every time I needed a bit more support. The trail was so tiny that only 1 person could walk through it most of the time. All I could hear by then was “You can do it Shannim. Keep going” repeatedly, possibly 1000 times!
I made it back to Camp 5 at 6.145pm, after a 12 hours strenuous climb. I hugged Bayan so hard and thanked him for rescuing me.
I was so exhausted and my legs were like jelly. My shorts were totally ripped but I had a smile on my face. It was totally worthwhile. It was an epic experience of a lifetime! Staying focused and keeping on breathing has helped me achieve my goal. It’s mind over matter. I am, after all, unstoppable!
A group of wonderful Malaysian climbers clapped their hands as soon as they saw me arriving at the campsite. One of them instantly prepared dinner for me and insisted I eat. I was so touched. Typical Malaysians, very kind and hospitable 
That night I really wished I was sleeping on a solid comfortable mattress instead of a mat! My back was achy. Ah well, the joy of travelling. I know I would appreciate my big comfy bed more than anything else in the world when I get home!
THE GRAND FINALE
Trekked back to the park headquarters on Day 3. Another 9 km trek, slow and steady. This time I’m so happy I had the chance to really enjoy the beauty of the jungles and its crystal clear rivers. I took lots of deep breaths, inhaling the fresh air and the amazing scent of the jungles. The sound of nature all around was a total bliss. I couldn’t stop smiling, proud of myself I made it to Mulu Pinnacles!
GUNUNG MULU TRAVEL TIPS
- Advanced booking can be made directly through the park headquarters, This is definitely cheaper than booking through a third party.
- There’s a 5 days national park fee chargeable at RM30 for foreigners and RM15 for Malaysians.
- Notes on how to get there can be found in my earlier article HERE
- Notes on accommodation can be found in my earlier article HERE
- Porters to Camp 5 can be hired at RM150 one way. You might want to consider this especially on your way back after the climb. I did it both ways and glad I did. I could at least take my time and enjoy the jungle without a heavy backpack.
- Healthy snack bars, isotonic drinks and hydration salt are essential for this trip. It will certainly help with the gruelling climb.
WHAT TO BRING
- Headlamp
- Raincoat
- Dry bag
- Jumper/sweater (it is cold at night)
- Sleeping bag
- Towel and toiletries- Not provided at Camp 5
- Insect repellent
- First Aid Kit
- Powerbank and spare batteries (nowhere to charge your gadgets)
- Water bottle (Water at be refilled)
- Food for the entire trip (no shops or restaurants at Camp 5)
Yeah bookmaking this wasn’t a speculative decision outstanding post! .
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